In this video We look at how to use a spray can primer. It's still about as fast as priming in one color. You can achieve really good highlighting with this technique. This was followed by an airbrush application of Daler Rowney white ink. From priming to edge highlight it took me 30 minutes i guess. One of the biggest reasons for running this experiment was to see it using ink pens would work instead of painting. Glaze red the full squad. Painting the Model Initial Priming Coat of Black ; Zenithal Priming from directly above only in a white ink; Mournfang Fur. While zenithal priming gives us a good start, for this technique to work to its maximum effectiveness, we need to kick it up a notch. Typical acrylic paint can be very thick and opaque. The other option I used a zenithal priming technique with a base of black, a large coat of grey from up high and then a highlight of white from directly above. He used: We wanna create something that's translucent. I tried this, using my homemade ink wash based on Lester Bursley's recipe, starting with Avric Albright. See below. In an effort to speed up the painting process, I decided to do zenithal priming, based on Vince Venturella’s method, allowing me to use glazing to paint all of the purple areas. I went with a black/grey/white zenithal prime using my airbrush. This is pretty standard zenithal priming so nothing new here. You could also do an acrylic red ink or 'candy' airbrush colour over metallic zenithal as a cheaper method per ml, but Contrast does also work nicely for that effect. Zenithal highlighting is mentioned in almost every video and article about it to be a way to speed paint models. Step 1: I prefer to use a zenithal priming on most of my models these days, as it doesn’t mute the bright colors in the highlights, and the shadows stay dark. We're heading into winter here, which means I'm out of rattle can season. The best paint for this is available not at your model or game store, but at the art store. To accomplish this, I almost always prime with Black, so that I don't have to do blacklines or ink washes as part of the painting process. Zenithal priming can be done with rattle cans or an airbrush. In addition, I don't have an airbrush, which makes Zenithal priming much cleaner and more effective. Aside from showing me the general details of the model, priming like this helps with 3D … Gray: All the disadvantages of both white and black, few advantages, though like white it takes less coats to make a color look good. I started with a black colored primer. It's not recommended for precision painting. I got some sweet base inserts from Tyson, which you can find at www.figurepainters.com, and with some Contrast Paints in hand, some Zenithal Priming, and some P3 Inks and paints, I found myself the happy owner of a fully painted Infernal army in about 30 hours of painting time and 14 days of work. * Wash in Secret Weapon: Soft Body Black. Sometimes I roughly block in the midtone, shadow, and highlight values of the major areas on my figure using black, white, and grey brush-on primer. However, in the same articles what it says (and what I discovered last night) is that for zenithal highlighting to work properly you must apply your base layers more transparently (too thick and it defeats the object), it being very often mentioned to reduce GW Zenithal the full squad. The Zenithal painting exaggerates the shadows and highlights of the model. The best paint for this is available not at your model or game store, but at the art store. * Paint the flesh light green. The contrast paints blow straight through the airbrush with maybe only a drop of water added to them for a full hopper of contrast paint. Zenithal Lighting Method: Black prime, with white sprayed from directly overhead. I prime with my airbrush because it’s hard to nail down decent weather for spray can primer in the Midwest that doesn’t change drastically from day to day. The zenithal prime isn’t a necessary step, so feel free to skip it and instead just prime the model white. You can read a nice article that I wrote on the subject by clicking on the link in the paragraph. I prefer priming in white. Max Wilco, do it. I don't consider myself an expert by any stretch of the imagination, but hope to share what I know about the topic with those folks in the same boat as me. The result is similar in spirit to zenithal priming: it pre-shades the recesses. The reason I suggest white over black primer is that we want our model to be bright before we apply the black ink. A lot of youtubers over the last 6months (ish) have been banging on about white ink as the 'be-all-end-all' be solution to the white zenithal but it has a lot of drawbacks: Yes you get a very smooth finish but the downside is that a) coverage is fairly poor, b) it's expensive, and c) it's not resistant to wear at all. By doing a quick dry brush, we can catch the edges and highest highlights of the model. Feb 18, 2016 - Neuerscheinungen, aktuelle Kundenbilder und weitere Neuigkeiten erfahrt Ihr entweder über meine separate Blog Seite oder aber Ihr abboniert/ liket mi… White ink can also be painted with after priming tho, and mixed with acrylic paints to lighten them They're great! * Paint the clothing light grey. 1. Zenithal Priming: To get the paint to stick to the plastic, spray the miniature with primer. Zenithal priming is a technique that uses more than one color of primer to pre-shade and highlight your models when you follow with nice thin layers of paint. Y It took a lot more time writing this than painting it ^^ You can even increase the speed by doing batch of models. It involves faking a source light, usually above or slightly to the side of a mini, creating high saturation, bright colors nearer the light source, and also darker, shaded and muted areas away from it. Here's an example of blood angels red airbrushed over straight gold, from this video - you can imagine the extra depth doing it with zenithal metallics would do. Jun 1, 2019 - Zenithal highlighting on models can be a huge and somewhat complex topic and it's with some reservation that I'm posting this whole "tutorial." I started with a zenithal priming application using Stynylrez primer. Priming white helps keep the brightness up on the model overall. This black wash is an "organic" black that isn't as harsh as washing in a black wash made with ink or paint. This applies to just about every brand of rattle can primer. I fully agree about the uniform and exaggerated panel line shading. Robert Canavan on the Bolt Action Facebook group posted up his US Paratroopers, painted with Citadel contrast paints. ... a few higher highlights here and there, and some tone adjustment of the leather armor with brown ink. The Whitemane starts out with zenithal priming through the airbrush. The Vallejo Surface Primer, when brushed on, has strange hyrdophobic properties. Black line … This is not an exhau… The plan here was to give me enough initial contrast so that I could then spray a single base color and still get a nice gradient effect. Zenithal priming is a method of underpainting, but there are other options for underpainting. I do this to create a ‘value map’ for myself to follow when I start applying the colour. * Base as covered in a later post. I shoot 90 degrees on top of the model with white paint. And instead just prime the model overall or game store, but are! 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